Local Ice Climbs for New Climbers

Wondering where to take those friends who have been pestering you to take them out ice climbing? Wanting to impress that significant other by freezing their toes and banging up their knuckles? If so, where should you go?

By far, the best intro area is Jensen's Resevoir East of Magrath. This has a 60 foot face that is good for beginners and relatively easy to top rope. There is little if any approach, and it is easy to switch off gear. The proximity to Lethbridge is also a boon. The angle also makes it easier to force new climbers to try ascending without crampons. This is good to get them confident about their foot work.

French Kiss can also be used for new climbers. However, this is a relatively busy spot. Because of this, it is usually best to set up your top rope on French Kiss (the left) instead of Quick & Dirty (the right). Plus this lets you tackle the steep ice near Pilier des Putains.

The pillars to the left of The Gasser can also provide some fun. However, the approach may be a bit much for complete novices. Also the ice at the base means switiching gear is more difficult than at other places. Also the Grade may be a bit stiff unless you are a seasoned rock climber.