Saturday, April 22, 2006

Even Warmer Rock in Waterton

Another great Friday of Climbing in Waterton. Aaron and I climbed Beeline to Lichen Line Right and the up some 5.3ish terrain to the top. At the start of the top easy stuff there is some awesome stratifacation in the rock, a tight curl and wave forming a neat cave and chimneys.
We dropped a cam at the start of the last pitch of lichen line and due to the wind we couldn't communicate to get it back. If anyone finds my yellow Metolious cam I will trade it for a case of beer, it should be sitting on the edge of the belay ledge.
We would like to try Cusaks in the near future and we were looking for a little more info than whats in the guide. Such as, is Cusacks start included in the four pitch description for Cusaks crack. how long is the 5.8 pitch, the crack looks big from the road, how big of gear do we need and stuff like that.
Again the ticks were horrible but you get used to them after a couple of dozen try to sneek home for a party, Aaron put bug dope around his ankles and that kept them out of his pants. I would suggest bringing an tick isolation bag to Waterton with you, I use a dry bag to stuff my ticky clothing and ropes into, so they don't sneek around your car on the drive home.
Chris M


At 4/22/2006 02:12:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

we will be heading up the hump this week and will have a look for your cam. will let you know if we find it. 

Posted by todd

At 4/26/2006 12:28:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Todd, I stopped by your house but no one was there. If you get bored, say hi. I am next to tamarack mall in the left door.

The cusak start is pretty much the same as the start for Harebell or mainline. You just climb up from the large grassy ledge to a fairly big ledge with some grass on it. To the left are some pins. the crack is a solid pitch in length. A decent belay is found on top. From there you can wander around in a number of directions. Take large stoppers, small to medium hexes, and a few friends from 1.5 to 2.5. However passive pro works very well. There should be a couple of pieces of fixed gear.

I have looked a the face between cusak's and harebell but haven't played on it. I did play a bit on the face to the right of harebell though. It is steep, but unfortunatley is missing the top, so one ends up cutting over to rosedale. 

Posted by chris g

At 4/26/2006 04:31:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks for the beta, I'm hoping to round up a climbing day on thursday. Dave stephens web page had some good photo's and route info, cusaks crack looks like a great climb. Also I went out to the glenwood boulder yesterday (tuesday) and the small lake that has been surounding it is gone. replaced with cow poo.
chris m 

Posted by chris m

At 5/04/2006 10:02:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

climbing something on the hump tomorrow afternoon (fri) will have a look for your cam chris, if we end up on that part of the face.

was away in manitoba helping riding mountain NP with a prescribed burn all last week. should be around for the weekend. plan to do some climbing and biking. 

Posted by todd

At 5/08/2006 08:57:00 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

never made it climbing, but rode the crandell loop on saturday. not much snow left at the lake, but had to walk through about 300m of snow all together. the odd log over the trail along the cameron rd section 

Posted by todd

At 5/20/2006 03:27:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

climbed left corner (i think) then up #13 in the guide book on friday evening. had a look for the cam at the start of the last pitch of lichen line but no luck.


Posted by todd


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