Saturday, March 31, 2012

Routes to the left of Beeline

I made it out today on the hump.  It is always so easy to forget how warm it gets up on that face.  Despite a fair bit of snow in the townsite and tonnes in the mountain, the face felt like summer.  I wandered up just to the right Right Warm  (5.3) and yet further right on another scramble (5.3 or 5.4).  Both were actually pretty nice routes that would take decent gear.

 I think I've done the one furthest right a couple of times before, but can't remember which one "Right Warm" is.  It doesn't have a very good description in the guidebook.  From the Bear's hump topo (#8) it looks like Right Warm is on the same face as Warm Up.  That means I was wandering between Right Warm (#8) and Beeline (#7).

I guess I might as well describe them, since they were actually much better than they looked.  The rock was solid, and while they were on the edge of a scramble, both had 2-4 moves that would warrant a rope for an average 5.7 climber.  My opinions may be off a bit since I was wearing a pair of hikers.  Unfortunately, I didn't bring a camera.  I'm sure lots of people have wandered up these routes before.

7a   5.3

Rock     ***-
Gear      ***-    ??
Moves   **-
Setting  **-

About 15 feet to the left of Beeline, there is an indistinct arete.  On the left side of the arete there is some solid looking dark grey rock that is at a fairly low angle (60 degrees).  Scramble up this rock with the occasional gear placement.  The fun, slabby scrambling ends at the white molar tooth limestone.  Here the rock has a couple of large rounded blocks (fridge size).  These are fully adhered to the rock. Either go left (watch rope drag?) or right.  A couple of 5th class moves are required before things settle back down to 4th class terrain.  The rock is quite solid.  The gear probably isn't consistent enough to make this a good first lead.  However, I thought it was a pretty decent route that felt funner than it looked.  The route starts in the pleasant grove of trees.

7b  5.3

Rock     ***-
Gear      ***-    ??
Moves   **-
Setting  **-

About 10 feet to the left of 7a is an even lower angle and easier looking section of rock.  It is about 15 feet to the right of a right facing corner scramble.  The rock is a bit more featured and has an occasional pocket.  Scramble up this rock until you get to a low angled fist crack formed by a big block.  Things are a bit mossy here, but the moves are pleasant and well protected.  You can avoid the crack by stepping right onto a pinnacle, but the gear isn't as easy.  Plus it is always nice to take advantage of a pleasant crack when you can.  The crack sets the route's grade.

The image shows the unclimbed dirty grove (left) and the nice scramble up through the slabby white/grey rock in the center.

Anyone scramble up these before and have some thoughts about them?



At 3/31/2012 08:32:00 PM , Blogger sigob said...

There is another easy corner crack line to the left of these two. Looks a bit dark and scruffy, but lots of chances for gear.

There's a small chance 7b is actually Right Warm. Have to check that out to confirm its not the case. There are a couple of "trees growing 1 foot apart" and several "cracks at the top"

At 4/01/2012 09:02:00 AM , Blogger Mark Iwaasa said...

Hey I guess the goats haunt webcam is down? How do I add this webcam to the side?

At 4/01/2012 10:30:00 AM , Blogger sigob said...

That's one of the summer only webcams. I heard Waterton is supposed to get one finally. NOt sure I believe it. I was at the lodge and they said they have one, but I haven't been able to google the url or find it on their webpage.

My netbook died, so I couldn't keep mine going..


At 4/29/2012 07:50:00 AM , Blogger sigob said...

When we were on these routes the other day, we found an old pin belay as you top out from the climbing. This is on a large grassy ledge, 1/2 to the trees. There is a solid yellow angle. You can get a perfect #9-13 stopper just to the right and another perfect #4 or #5 stopper, making a perfect belay spot.

Skyline makes for a pretty good first lead. The pro is fairly solid. The only downside is that you can't place it anywhere, you have to place it as the fixed spots which occur every 4 feet or so. One long sling is needed as well.

At 5/25/2012 09:46:00 PM , Blogger sigob said...

The left route has been arbitrarily dubbed "second class", while the right hand route is now called "skyline". No idea if it was done in the past before. I can't remember if I found the pin up there the first time I climbed the right route, or if I placed it after removing it from the info bureau to place a top anchor...


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