Technical Peaks In Alberta's South West

The Southern Alberta Alpine Club is mid-way through a project to identify the technical peaks south of the Oldman River and north of the U.S. border.  (Mountains adjacent to Waterton & Cameron lakes are, however, included.)



The definition we're using for technical peaks appears similar to that used by the Glacier Mountaineering Society: the easiest route to the summit has a minimum difficulty of one pitch (~35+ m) and either a very dramatic, imposing summit, or sustained 3rd class/4th class difficulties.









Currently, our list of Southern Alberta technical peaks include:

1. The Elevators (middle (2nd) & east (1st?)
• 10 pitches up to 5.8 for middle, 4th class for east elevator
• FA = ?
2. Seven sisters
• couple of pitches of 5.6 on tower 6
• FA = Bruno Engler, Fritz Frei, 1951
3. Citadel spire
• 2 pitches of 5.6
• FA = = Jim Kanzler, Jerry Kanzler Ray Martin, Clare Pogreba, 1967
4. Castle
• 1 pitch of 5.6
• FRA = Greg Hooge & Martin Krippl mid-to-late 1980’s
5. Font
• 1-2 pitches of 4th class via north side
• FRA = David & Ron Goble late 1960's
6. Michewabum
• 1-2 pitches of 4th class with 10m 5th class
• FA = Charles Fisher, Hal Kanzler, Thomas Sweeny, 1962
7. Dungarvan
• 40m of 4th class
• FA = boundary commission 1896 (unlikely) or 1914 boundary commission
8. Mt. Darrah
• several pitches of 4th class slabs
• FA = 1914 boundary Commission
9. Galwey
• 20m 4th class crux, exposed summit
• FA = ?? boundary commission ?? ?? 1896 ??
10. Custer
• 1 pitch of exposed 4th class, lots of 3rd class, exposed summit
• FA = ?
• 
  

11. Long Knife Ridge

• two separate 4th class sections
• FA = boundary commission

12. Mount Parrish

• 4th/5th class via southwest face
• FA = ?

13. Mount Coulthard

• low 5th class via east face
• FA = Dennis Holden in 1960

??? Ptolemy ???

• uncertain difficulty via easiest route
• exposed 4th class slab on standard route
• FA = 1914 Boundary Commission

??? Parrish ???

• uncertain difficulty via easiest route
• exposed 4th class slab on standard route
• FA = ?

??? King Edward ???

• uncertain difficulties via easiest route
• FA = ?

Technical ratings are based on the easiest possible route, not by the "normal" route. Feedback with extra details and history is most definitely welcomed.