Tuesday, November 27, 2007

New route?

Hey All

Last weekend my buddy Jason Runge and I climbed the east face of Chinook mountain following an obvious ice line. We left the truck at 6am with bikes and got to the base of the scree slopes on the North East shoulder after the sun came up. From there we climbed up the shoulder to the base of the cliffs and traversed along snow slopes to the base of the face. Approach of about 3 hours.

We soloed the first 2 pitches of snow and ice "snice"... up to WI3 since it wasn't that protect able.

the 3rd pitch was a little over 60 meters of "snice" at about WI4 (we simul climbed the last few moves so Jason could get a better anchor.)

The 4th pitch was short up WI2-3 to a rock belay on the left.

The 5th pitch was 3o meters of beautiful waterfall ice up to WI4+ or 5 to the base of the final pillar. It could probably have been combined with the 4th pitch but we decided the rock anchor was better than what we had.

The final pitch was a 20 to 25 meter vertical pillar with a diameter of 6-8 feet at the base followed by a bit easier slush and then a snow bowl to the top. I finished the last of the technical ice climbing as the sun went down, while Jason climbed it in the dark.

It was 5 or 6 pitches up to WI6.

We descended by rappelling and down climbing the North face and got back to the car by 1 am.

There was less than 3 inches of snow so the bikes got us down from the scree in less than 20 min! Nearly as good as skis.

Have any of you climbed this? Does anyone know if it has been climbed? Jason has interrogated Arron from the climbing shop in the pass and we saw no signs of climbers on the route. We know others have tried it but we have no confirmed reports of anyone making it up. However if another party climbed it and descended the North face as we did, they wouldn't have left anything for rapping.

Oh and if anyone wants to climb the North face of Chinook we left presents! I lost at least one screw in the scree when my racking beaner broke some time in the night (falling on my ass). And we left 2 stubbies and a piton rapping off the face.

I will post pics and clips when I get them.




At 11/27/2007 09:23:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Awesome dude.. Dont think that that one has been climbed to the top.. give it a cool name..

At 11/28/2007 08:28:00 AM , Blogger Aimee said...

sounds a little 'over the top" hahaha

At 11/28/2007 09:30:00 AM , Blogger Willis said...

lol I am no expert here. After reading and rethinking the climb the final pitch could be a WI5+. Jason and I were both a bit tired. I like the idea of under grading a route rather than over grading it. Let the next guys figure it out. It was harder than leading the center line on the weeping wall, and Le Pilier des Putains. However it may have been more solid despite being free standing.

I refer to Jason for grading as he has more experience with WI6s.

At 11/28/2007 09:48:00 AM , Blogger Scott Harms said...

well done! whether it has been climbed or not it is a good showing. Cheers to you boys

At 11/28/2007 05:23:00 PM , Blogger chris g said...

The only person I could think of would be Eric Hoogstraten. He has done quite a few routes there in the winter, but doesn't report much - that I am aware of. Just send the info of to Josephson or on to Sean Isaac. I may have their contact information somewhere if needed.

At 11/28/2007 09:57:00 PM , Blogger Blair Piggot said...

Awesome work Willis. Sounds like a good route and definitely a long day.

At 12/04/2007 02:19:00 PM , Blogger Brandon F said...

That climb was sweet. You should send your story to a climbing magazine, I think yours would be better than a lot of the climbs abroad.

At 12/22/2010 10:42:00 AM , Blogger sigob said...

Some pictures from another ascent - gravsports page http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=7914


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