Sunday, September 18, 2011

New Routes on Bear's Hump

This weekend two new routes were put up on the upper -upper right tier of Bear's Hump.  (This area is directly above Dave's Lash and Thick as a Tick).  Routes can be accessed by following the tourist trail up a few hundred meters to a game trail leading to the satellite repeater.  Follow the semi-open hillside up.

The corner to the right of Lyme Streak got cleaned.  Two bolts were added to the gearless lower section.  This is a very good climb, requiring a few small cams and a couple of small and mid sized nuts.  It ends at Lyme Streak anchors.  5.10b or 5.10c

Another route was put up in the same area.  This route lies further to the west, and is just right of the gorgeous 4th class scramble. It heads up through some solid whitish rock, cutting left of a small roof with a fixed pin and optional nut.  It then tackles a steep bulge via 2 bolts (5.9+?) and a nut.  It ends at a 2 bolt anchor.  There is a huge bucket to the right of the upper bolt that feels loose and probably shouldn't be pulled on while leading.  We bounced on it while standing, and couldn't get it to move.

New route is hidden just behind Blair.



At 9/18/2011 02:27:00 PM , Blogger Marko Polo said...

nice work! might get a change to look at it if the fall stays warm.

At 9/18/2011 03:32:00 PM , Blogger sigob said...

Good place for Fall, as it is out of the wind, in the morning and afternoon sun, and still has good views of the townsite.

Surprisingly enough I got two ticks on me while belaying.

The routes are pretty safe, which is nice, and can be toproped if you want to check things out. - You do ned a directional for the right-hand route though.

At 9/25/2011 08:38:00 AM , Blogger sigob said...

Going back again, the new route is fabulous! Really nice climbing that is well protected, juggy, but still challenging. I thought 10b. Anne thought 10c.

The climb further to the left by the scramble is also better than I thought. 1 bolt instead of 2 through the crux would likely have sufficed, but then that's the risk of doing things ground up. It's harder to get fixed pro perfect. It's probably a 5.9, but a tricky one with a short crux.


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