Wednesday, October 26, 2005

Gate is Open

Driving back and forth lately I haven't seen any one at the gate. It looks like it is finally closed for the season. The road to Red Rock is still open. Usually they close that at the start of Nov. or when the snow flies.


At 10/27/2005 03:53:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

When does the ice form in red rock? Have you ever had the chance to climb in the canyon? 

Posted by chris morris

At 10/27/2005 05:25:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

I don't head up there very often in the winter as the road is closed. I would imagine once the snow is on the ground the freeze thaw should kick in. They are melt water seeps, so should form fairly early. They are also quite shaded. However the top of the climbs probably melts out since they are south facing, even if they are in the canyon. I would guess by the end/middle of Nov. they should be in. You could certainly try earlier based on low temps and a single snow dusting. You should be able to bike in without too much trouble. There are a few long drifts that make this impractical in the winter. I have done it at Christmas and February.

The pillar just above the upper bridge is pretty nice. I believe that is the one I have shots of in my website. It can be a bit thin though. A mixed route is to the left. I worry about scratching the rock there though, so have generally avoided it. The climb just below the bridge really isn't worth much. It steepens up at the narrow top, but is more awkward than fun.

Ruby falls is a really good spot. It is quite shaded, although the ice is super wet (hence the names). It is in a pretty cool spot. Bring snowshoes for the approach up the drainage.

Down by St. Mary's an early season ice climb also comes into shape just behind the town. I haven't been up on it though, and haven't bought the Montana ice guide to see what is written up. 

Posted by chris goble

At 10/27/2005 10:47:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

I was wondering if anyone has done any of the routes on Stanley Peak? Can they be done in early november? In the select alpine climbs book it talks about the two couloirs having the the usual objective hazards associated with couloirs. Can anyone go into a little more detail(cornices?). I am looking for an alpine climb (grade 2-3) mostly snow and ice. Any ideas?
Also on a side note I was climbing around Fernie up the hartley road. There is a decent cliff (two pitches), but we had no idea what any of the grades where. 

Posted by Nathan Shenton

At 10/28/2005 11:20:00 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

I think I am off to hike the akamina ridge or into the Nanatuck on Sat. If anyone is interested, let me know by giving me a call 859-2452.

The elk weren't out on the pass creek flats today. 

Posted by chris goble

At 10/28/2005 12:30:00 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey Nathan, I would think that Stanley would be a better climb in the summer unless the area has had a dry fall which has not been the case this year. Dave and i did the east ridge of Storm Mtn. towards the end of August and there was still some cornice on the top end or our route then. When we summited we had a good look at Stanley and it looked to me like there was a fair bit of snow on it then and i know there's been a fair bit of snow since. Dave has a pretty good picture of it on his website. Not saying it's not doable but i would sure proceed with caution. You could also post a note on LTV and see if anybody has done the route or been in the area in the last couple of weeks. That would give you a better idea yet. 

Posted by Blair Piggot

At 10/29/2005 11:09:00 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey Nathan, I,ve been to the stanley head wall in early november and there was lots of snow around so be careful and send a report back on how the ice is looking.

Posted by chris morris


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