Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Experts Choice

Played hookey at work today and climbed the middle route on Experts with Jason Wilcox and Dow Williams. It's in excellent condition right now. The first pitch was pretty chandilered which it usually is, but Jason seemed to be able to put in some pretty decent pro in spite of it. There were some features to stand on to give the forearms a slight break but it's still damned steep. The cave behind the ice curtain at the top of the first pitch was large enough for the three of us to throw a party. It's an excellent belay spot because it got us out of the wind and provided good protection from falling ice. The crux was the first half of the second pitch. First you have to step out of the cave and swing around onto the ice and it's steep and sustained for a good 30-35meters. One very short pitch (WI2) got us to the top belay station. Two raps down gets you to the bottom if you use the right rap stations. Gotta' love the huge ice features on top of the left side from the wind. Kind of reminds me of witch's hair. Anyways, its an awesome climb and kudo's to Jason for leading both pitchs. It was tough seconding it. Seeing as how Jay and Dow are climbing for the rest of the week, it will probably be next week before he puts anything up on his website but here's a link to both of their sites:


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