Tuesday, July 15, 2008

New Route on Expert's Choice

Yellow Jacket Swing
2 pitches
excellent gear, excellent pro

The main pitch of Yellow Jacket Swing as seen from the top

This climb, recently established by Blair and Dave, is about 15m to the climbers right of Triangle Panic and 55m from the start of Crispy Ambulance. It climbs a prominent corner on the far right side of the upper tier at Expert's Choice.  The following description is from Blair.

Pitch 1)   The route starts from Raspberry Ledge and climbs the obvious left facing arete. At the top of this arete the crack continues very slightly to the right, then straight up and then slightly to the left (all very obvious). Here the crack peters out but an easy 3m traverse to the left puts you at a right angling groove to the belay station. The rock is quite good and the pro is excellent. This pitch is about 50m and probably a 5.7.

Pitch 2)   From the belay station if you look up there are three grooves. We took the left most one which angles to the left all the way to the belay station but i think any of the three grooves would work. This was a 35 to 40m pitch and went at 5.4.

The route ascends the obvious corner in the background.  Picture as seen from Raspberry Ledge

Zoom in to see the route location. The bottom is Triangle Panic (5.8+), the recommended start

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At 7/25/2008 01:02:00 PM , Blogger Scott Harms said...

hey blair, i think jill and are are going to give this a whirl on sunday. Dave and I briefly gazed at this line until a really big storm moved in from cameron lake! It was cool watching it from rasberry ledge until the " oh sh** we need to get down fast" kicked in. Cheers Scott

At 7/31/2008 10:18:00 PM , Blogger Blair Piggot said...

Let us know what you think Scott, ie: grade, quality etc.


At 8/22/2008 09:55:00 AM , Blogger Scott Harms said...

we didn't manage to make it out the other weekend but i want to try and get out this weekend. What did you think of triangle panic? It's been a while since I first climbed it..... Cheers. Scott


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