Wednesday, July 16, 2008

New Bolted Routes at the Choice

A few bolt protected routes at the Choice have gotten put up this week.  They are around Crispy Ambulance.

First, I have to say, repeating the roof move at the top of Crispy was as exciting as I remembered it - especially while rope soloing.  The pin shifted quite nicely in my hands after having committed to the moves (large expando block) and way too far above the last mediocre piece of gear for my own good..  I figured this is the Ambulance part of the route, as the bottom had quite nice, crisp, face/arete holds with decent protection.  A new set of bolts is now found on a ledge just below the bad pin.  This makes the crack route much more enjoyable.

To the right of Crispy Ambulance is a route that probably goes at about 5.10a. It climbs to the old bolt anchors 15 feet right of the manky pin.  This is a very nice route.  The fun, steep sequence near the top is well protected.  Start left of Crispy on some 60 grit brown sandpaper.

A  5.10b  30m
B  5.10a  30m
C  5.7      30m  Crispy Ambulance
D  5.7     2 pitches  Split Cleavage

To the left of this route, another route has been set.  A small roof, 3 bolts up, is the distinguishing feature.  The bolt spacing reminds me of late 80's early 90's routes.  A thin knife blade under the roof may be warranted to protect the cut left - hard to say though.

Two rap rings can also now be found just above the first (and rarely done) pitch of Split Cleavage.  This should keep the old slings used to rap off the horn from piling up.

A 60m rope will just get you down to the Raspberry ledge from both routes. 60m rope was also just make it down to the ground from the Local Decision station.  I am not sure about the length of the rap from the base of Crispy (the standard station used to rappel Split Cleavage).

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At 8/05/2008 09:02:00 PM , Blogger chris g said...

I did route B the other day. It is a very good 10a. the crux is well bolted. The exit still has an airy feel. The beginning is also quite good, although certainly easier than the overall grade.

The first bolt is low so the danger of a factor 2 fall or ledge fall is small.

Folk Story seems like an appropriate name.


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