Tuesday, August 05, 2008


There have been a number of interesting ethics discussions over at LVM as of late.  It is nice to see that site getting more active as of late.  I thought I would post some links to the more interesting threads.  I think having a clear set of ethics for an area is nice.  It allows different styles of climbing to remain without being watered down over the years.  So, with no particular comments, and no hidden purpose beside illuminating some interesting discussion, here are some local links for those ever wishing to think about long term communities.



At 8/10/2008 06:35:00 PM , Blogger Blair Piggot said...

Here's a link from Dow Williams site. It indicates one of the problems with old school grades but at the same time, one has to remember, its user beware!!! This route was first done in the mid 70's. I tried this route three or four years ago but backed off (chickened out).


At 8/15/2008 03:14:00 PM , Blogger chris g said...

Yep grading isn't always accurate, and that can be quite a problem on alpine climbs when the buffer zone between capabilities and difficulties is low.

It seems like in the old days being a 5 whatever leader meant not just being solid at that grade but being able to handle most sandbags.

Of course, grading definitely is affected by the era - pre 50's is quite different than the late 60's, 70's which is quite different than today. And, to be honest, there tends to be quite a bit of congestion around the grades the FA thinks are his/her max. I know going around the climbs around here this year has made me realize the 5.10 cap.


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