Sunday, June 14, 2009

Expert's Choice: Right side of Pillar

A new route finally got put up to the top of the central pillar left of Split Cleavage. The thin face above the ledge proved pretty tricky and, I think, justified many of the aborted clean attempts from years gone by. There are two bolts on top of the pillar from an inspection a number of years ago. The left side of the pillar had a fabulous layback crack we top roped (still lots of lose blocks). I'll let Blair fill people in on the details.

We did get a stuck rope on the rappel, but Blair managed to lead back up to free it.



Seconding Local Decision 5.9




Contemplating those many years looking up towards the pillar



Ground up to the pillar with all its pro's, con's, tangles of gear and uncertainty



Interesting jamming along the dihedral

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5 Comments:

At 6/14/2009 08:03:00 PM , Blogger sigob said...

One step closer to busting through those big overhangs at the top.

 
At 6/15/2009 09:41:00 PM , Blogger Blair Piggot said...

To access this route you have to climb either Long Decision, Crispy Ambulance. The anchors for this route are actually between the top of Long Decision and Crispy Ambulance. From the anchors move left to a short wide crack stepping up to a large horizontal crack to the right at about chest hieght to clip the first bolt. The moves are devious between the first two bolts, 5.10a/b. The route will angleup and left over to the base of the dihedral. A small crack here takes a fairly good #5 or #6 nut. The rest of the dihedral takes excellent gear, mostly small to medium stoppers and cams to a #2. There are two fixed bolts at the top of dihedral just above the roof and a comfortable stance to bring the second up. The rappel can be done in one pitch with two 60m ropes and as Chris said, we did have some problems with our rope hanging up when we pulled it but it is an excellent climb.

 
At 6/15/2009 09:52:00 PM , Blogger sigob said...

I think the route right of Long Decision with the three pins is Local Decision. Crispy ambulance starts on the ledge 1 pitch up, and near some of the bolted routes up there.

 
At 6/15/2009 09:58:00 PM , Blogger sigob said...

Thanks for the info Blair.

I think you could make it all the way up the pillar from the ground in one pitch - although the rope drag could be bad. (Long Decision)

I would guess from the new belay the pillar pitch is about 20m-25m. The pillar is maybe a 5.9?

 
At 6/16/2009 08:55:00 PM , Blogger Blair Piggot said...

Yes, it should have been Local Decision not Crispy Ambulance and i would agree with the pillar being a 5.9.

 

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