Saturday, August 01, 2009


Height: 7,703
View-o-meter: 4/5
Scrambling Difficulty: Difficult
Total Trip Difficulty: Easy
Best Feature: Quick trip up a dramatic peak
Worst Part: Missing the trail through the grassy slopes at the bottom

Galwey is one of the most popular scrambles in the park. A fairly short approach, well beat out trail good exposure and a dramatic summit make for an irresistible draw. Of course being in Kane's scrambling book doesn't hurt either!

Over the past decade a significant trail has developed up the scree slopes along its face. From the Coppermine Creek picnic area, follow a fairly good trail up a steep hillside. Partway up the trail starts to disappear. It tends to stay more left than one would suspect. It you do loose it, don't worry, just make for the crest of the ridge.

The ridge crest has some beautiful outcroppings of red argillite that are easy to walk on. There is no scrambling along this section. As you progress along the ridge crest, the trail through the talus slopes on the main peak above is obvious (it cuts up and to the left)

The talus has a decent trail through it that spares you much of the misery of Waterton talus. If you have recently ascended Blakiston, you will know what this means.

Near the end of the talus slopes, the trail cuts back right up a large gully with relatively easy scrambling. Wind your way to a large flat ledge. Directly to the west lies a large pinnacle. To the east a small window can be seen along the south ridge. From this ledge you must step around to your left (east), working your way around some ledges. This is an exposed 4th class traverse that goes on for about 30 feet. After the traverse you wind up at the base of a 10-15 foot gully/chimmney (4th class). Stem your way up this to reach a short section of shale that leads to the flat summit pyramid.

Belaying the step around (#4 & 7 stoppers & red tri-cam) - although few people actually use any gear - its an exposed 4th class traverse with good solid footing

Note: Due to some of the narrow gullies, rock fall posed by other parties, or even those from your own may be problematic. Some caution should be taken. Many people stop at the first large ledge, saving the traverse and difficult scrambling for their friends. There is no water on the route.

Galwey in the fall - Note the Red Rock Canyon closes during late fall & winter and opens up on the May long weekend



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