Saturday, October 29, 2011

Leader's Pack

I'm just doing some research on good packs for a leader on multi-pitch routes.  When I'm out with Anne, I usually end up leading with a full rack and carrying the gear, so I'm looking for a light pack under 20L.

So far the candidates are

Super Light & Small

Standard Lead Climbing Packs
Arcteryx Cierzo 18
Marmot Kompressor or Kompressor Plus
Camp Phantom

Beefy


With no close gear shops I obviously can't figure out what fits.  Right now I like the BD Hollowpoint for some occasional hauling (I'm thinking new routes at Expert's Choice).  It should also handle chimney's better that the ultralights.  However, I hate the extra full pound of weight.  I also like how it seems to be a bit longer and narrower than other packs.

The arcteryx seems much too deep and sack-like for me.  That's also why I ruled out the standard BD bullet pack.

The Camp Phantom seems pretty decent.  It doesn't get the press that the BD line does.

4 Comments:

At 10/29/2011 02:29:00 PM , Blogger sigob said...

The Cilo Hauly could be a nice compromise between a sturdy pack that isn't too big.

All the internal pockets on the Hollowpoint make me think they may have focussed a bit too much on the around-town cross-over.

Camp is a totally unknown. Some part of me sort-of likes that.

 
At 10/30/2011 05:28:00 PM , Blogger sigob said...

Looks like the Mountain Hardware Crimper could be a good competitor to the Black Diamond Hollowpoint. At 15L it is more along the size I'm after.

I suspect the Camp will be a wide rectangular pack, reminiscent of my junior high book bag. Hopefully not, but.....

http://www.mountainhardwear.ca/Crimper%E2%84%A2/OU3550,default,pd.html

 
At 10/31/2011 10:41:00 PM , Anonymous Brad said...

Chris,

Hi there. I was trying to buy the same thing a few years ago. I found this article very helpful, if you haven't see it already:

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Daypack-Reviews

I haave both the bullet and the REI flash. The flash is great as a light daypack (particularly for overnight trips), but is a little delicate for Waterton rock. The bullet is great, but the lack of ice axe loops bugs me when I want to put my axes on my pack for rappelling when ice climbing.

I also fondled the Petzl Bug, which is a wonderful pack for rock climbing....but it's a bit on the heavier side. But they really thought the pack through, and the features are all very nice...seemed tough too.

Happy shopping!

Brad Hagen

 
At 11/01/2011 09:36:00 AM , Blogger sigob said...

Thanks Brad. I hadn't even looked at the REI Flash 18 in the ultralight category.... The Petzl Bug looks interesting too

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/verticality/packs-chalk-bags/climbing-pack/bug

I've decided I want something not very deep. That rules out the Arcteryx, Kompressor and Hollowpoint.

I have no idea how the BD Bbee will fit. The 11L capacity seems just about perfect for a run up the hump but will be stretched by a full day on the Choice.

Guess I'll have to see about fit next.

 

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