Saturday, October 01, 2011

New Route - Expert's Choice

A couple of years ago a new route went in between Local Decision and Long Decision.  It has solid placements, but is definitely not a "sew" up.  There is a fixed pin down low, and a bolt at mid height.  Bring some micro-nuts for the terrain before the bolt.  At the upper roof, the route cuts right to join up with Local Decision.  Unfortunately there is a bit of loose rock here.  Luckily the hard climbing is done.

I would guess the route is another 5.9.  It has one hard pull by the bolt.  Blair repeated it a few weeks ago and tested out the micro nuts below the bolt.  I got even with him and put in 2 bolts into Long Decision.  The rock was horrid.

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