Thursday, June 05, 2008

New bolt on Left Corner



UPDATE - a shot just under the crux of Left Corner - made more difficult with 35lbs of bolting gear for the upper right tier

Photo by Trevor MacMillan














New Bolt on Left Corner


a view looking at the meat of left corner


We tried the least popular of the three lower tier corners the other week - Left Corner 5.6. I think I may have to update the route picture in the guide book.

The climb starts just above the ledge that leads to the standard start to Leaning Column and Milt's Delight.



A quarter the way up the dolomite there is a fixed knife blade. About half way up the Dolomite a bolt has been added to a thinly protected section of climbing. This most likely went in at the same time as the new bolt of Leaning Column. The junction between the two rocks takes good nuts. While you can climb the buldge directly, most people will traverse to the left about 6 feet before traversing back on a good horizontal break. The guide book does not indicate this on the route description. Instead it shows a traverse much higher.

Left Corner has the most lose rock of the 3 main lower tier climbs. The fun climbing is short. The route's character is generally inconsistent. If you are just doing one of the lower routes, Leaning Column is probably still your best bet.



White noose still looks like a stout climb. It definitely has the potential to be another Waterton sandbag.

1 Comments:

At 6/08/2008 09:04:00 PM , Anonymous Brad said...

Chris,

Hi there. I have a 2-person Marmot mountaineering tent for sale, and wondered if you could please put this 'ad' for it up on your blog (I don't have access).

The tent is in great shape, and had been very well cared for. I paid about $450 for it, but am willing to sell it for $150 (firm). Photos and specs on the tent can be found at: http://www.moontrail.com/marmot-thor-2P.php It's a great tent for mountaineering/winter use, as well as some early spring/late fall backcountry use...

I'm hoping I can sell it local to avoid the hassle of shipping, but if I can't sell it in the next two weeks or so, I'll just post it on the MEC gear swap, and expect it will go quickly there.

If people are interested, they can call me at 329-8333, or email me at brad.hagen@uleth.ca

Thanks Chris!

Brad Hagen

 

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