Friday, April 18, 2008

Tick Ridge

1. Right Corner
2. Orange Marmalade
3. Black Cat
6. Classic Loss

starting out under the "Orange marmalade" roof

Last August, Anne, Ronna and myself headed up to tick ridge to check out some old lines. We wandered up a short, insignificant route just to the right of Orange Marmalade. It was about 5.5 or so with adequate but certainly not exceptional gear. Looking back on my notes, the crew decided to call this one Tug Boat. I have a feeling the Wardens in the 80's probably climbed it. They had reportedly done a number of training climbs in that neck of the woods.

Putting in gear on the line right of Orange Marmalade

If you are looking to check out a new area, tick ridge has enough climbs to make a day. My suggested hit list would be - warm up on right corner, scramble over to classic loss. After classic loss (5.7), see about putting up a new line on one of the cracks that spilt off from it. If you still have any fingers left, try Engagement (just below the classic loss top anchors - 5.6). If you don't have a knifeblade to replace the broken one at mid height, try just top roping it.



At 4/18/2008 03:34:00 PM , Blogger chris g said...

The big route in this area is Orange Marmalade. The fist crack through the roof is hard to figure out and strenuous. If you like laybacking, this may just be your route. I have only top roped this climb. A bolt may be in order for the face below the roof - or it may not.

At 7/09/2008 11:17:00 PM , Blogger chris g said...

The pin on engagement has been replaced. The right route has 1 bolt and two fixed pins. You should take a mid sized stopper for the bottom.

The left route has 2 bolts and then joins an easy crack (some nuts). Both routes are quite nice.

You can't traverse over to Classic Loss from the base of engagement. You have to rap from the top of the climbs.


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