More Choice

A couple new routes are up at the second tier at Expert's Choice.  They tackle some sharp rock left of Split Cleavage.

Consider the E & F lines on this picture approximate.  I always have to go back a few times to get them exactly right.

E:  Project

5.10+?     40m

The bottom two bolts through the brown grit haven't been placed yet.  The route heads up to the prominent left facing corner (gear in the corner).  Here it cuts right to ascend the steep horizontal breaks (bolts).  The rock is sharp, the exposure huge, and some of the sequences are hard to suss out (5.10c?).  At the top a 0.5 cam or equivalent is needed to protect the ground just before the top.  The climbing is anything but technical.  The heart of the climb is juggy with huge footholds and amazing friction.

A variation to the left at about 2/3rd is possible (not bolted).  This would continue up a series of horizontal breaks on the arete's edge.  I think Blair, me and Dave worked this route about 4 or 5 years ago.

Blair trying to figure out the start to the breaks (2004)

Chris - same place. The possible variation would follow the arete near where the knot is located. The crux of the other route is about 8 feet to the right. (2004)

F:  Project

5.11-?    40m

A couple of small to mid sized nuts protect the short slabby start (5.9).  The ground quickly steepens near the first bolt before easing off until you get to the yellow headwall above.  The climbing in the horizontal breaks is steep.  I had a hard time figuring out how to bust through this section's traverse (5.11-? or 5.10d?).  There are a number of good holds to choose from, few of which lead to feasible progress.  The rock gets sharp again after the overhang (5.10).  The bolt spacing is close because of this.  Don't wear shorts.  The breaks in the yellow headwall are still a bit dusty.  A bit more comfortizing of pricklies is also needed, however this is mainly throughout the easier upper climbing.  The rightward location of the bolt at the crux is to protect the traverse.

Both routes lead to the large ledge below Split Cleavage's upper roof.  Because a number of routes now lead up here, I decided to replace the 2 pin belay with a rap bolts.  This should limit the amount of tatter that will collect.  It also accommodates a belay for future routes up and to the left.  The pins & cam placement were too far away to be suitable or safe.  Also, the reliability of the pins, while appropriate for the character of Split Cleavage, just aren't appropriate for  other traffic.  No other reliable 2 pin stations were available on the ledge, and the other lone pin placement would require 5m of cord to tie together.  And so, while the cam placement makes for a reliable lead belay, it doesn't do much for a rap station.  I have a feeling in the future this ledge will be part of a series of 30m rap stations coming down from the top.  There is another ledge below the new station that does not yet have rap anchors.  It is below and to the right of Folk Story's anchors.  Another good line leads up from here all the way to the top.