Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Ice Opener

After viewing the survey results and consulting the chinook spirits, the Waterton Ice Opener is hereby scheduled for Dec. 12.

Backup plans are rock climbing at the Info Bureau.




Saturday, November 14, 2009

November Ice Conditions

While blogs aren't as good as forums for posting updates and images from the general climbing community, here it goes.

Jollin posted the following images in the ice opener section. I'm reposting them here. Add your own comments if you have been out on the ice, or have driven by and seen conditions.



Gasser Week of Nov 11 - Jollin

Midnight Madness Week of Nov 11 - Jollin

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Saturday, November 07, 2009

Ridge Runs, Loops, Enchainments & Horseshoes

Most scramblers like putting on the miles high above the tree line, not down in valley bottoms. With that in mind, here is a list of some possible ridge runs and enchainments in the Waterton area.

There isn't too much sophistication in the selection process. Routes need to be easily achievable during a long day out by a fit scrambler. 20km to 30km of travel is average, with most of that being off trail. Because things are on ridges, I tend to ignore elevation gain (I usually ignore it anyway as it is just a pain to calculate and tends to be a number chasing hobby like peakbagging). Route difficulty can be quite varied, but doesn't involve any 5th class climbing. Route finding is mainly limited to picking your way up weaknesses.



Dragon's Back (Akamina or Forum ridge)
Length:
Distinct summits: 4
Named peaks: 1

Technical crux: 3rd class
Technical consistency: One ~100m section of scrambling
Special considerations: n/a

Best part: Lots of distance looking at gorgeous peaks
Worst part: Deciding if the top of the early descent gully is too steep
The phrase that sums it up: Gorgeous vies of quintessential snow capped Rocky Mountains

Physical wear and tear: Moderate
Route Quality: ***

Dragon's Back Route Description: Since most scramblers are keen to gain as many summits as possible, I'll describe this trip via its original route: via Forum peak instead of via the ridge between Forum lake and Wall lake.

Hike to Akamina pass to ascend up to Forum peak. Head west, running the easy ridge above Forum and Wall lakes. As you start down to Bennet's pass most people shorten the trip by dropping down the snow and shale slope leading to the hanging valley just north west of Wall lake. Return to your car via the Wall lake trail.



Hawkins Horshoe
Length:
Distinct summits: 5
Named peaks: 3

Technical crux: 5m of 4th class chimney through Blakiston's black purcell
Technical consistency: Limited to one ~50m section on Blakiston
Special considerations: n/a

Best part: Can you ever get tired of looking at Lineham lakes?
Worst part: Lots of backsliding up Blakiston's south face
Distinguishing characteristic: Usually the first "hard" ridge run

Physical wear and tear: Moderate
Route Quality: ***

Hawkins Horshoe Route Description: Hike up the Lineham creek trail until you get to the last open creek. Slog up the open talus slope to Blakiston negotiating a small band of black purcell (4th class) and some additional 3rd class ledges which lie above this. Run the easy rounded ridge back west to Hawkins before encountering the Tamarack trail south of the peak. Head east to Lineham and ski down the talus slope to arrive at the junction to lower Rowe lakes. Walk a couple km back down the Akamina Highway to return to your car.



Anderson - Lost - Bauerman
Length:
Distinct summits: 4
Named peaks: 4

Technical crux: 4th class chimney through Blakiston's black purcell
Technical consistency: Intermittent. 3 or 4 technical sections around Lost and Kootenai Brown peaks
Special considerations: Good scrambling is found on Anderson's right hand skyline

Best feature: Varied scrambling on clearly distinct peaks
Worst feature: Long walk out from Twin Lakes
The phrase that sums it up: Packing a summer into one push!

Overall trip difficulty: Moderate
Route quality: ***

Anderson - Lost - Bauerman Route Description: Hike up the trail past Blakiston falls until you can head up one of the drainages leading to Anderson. Go to the right skyline for some unnecessary but very fun bits of scrambling. Run the ridge through Lost, Kootenai Brown and Bauerman peaks. Expect varied scrambling around the first two peaks. Drop down to Lower Twin lakes and make the long walk back out to Red Rock canyon.



East Ridge of Glendowan to Newman

Length:
Distinct summits: 5
Named peaks: 2

Technical cruxes: several short 4th class sections
Technical consistency: sustained
Special considerations: sustained

Best feature: Exposed ridge lines
Worst feature: Hot and dry
The phrase that sums it up: Intimidating for just the right amount of time

Overall trip difficulty: Difficult
Route quality: ***

East Ridge of Glendowan to Newman Route: Start at Red Rock canyon. Hop the fence on the upper bridge and cut up the south ridge of the unamed 8500+ peak which sits between Cloudy Ridge and Glendowan. Follow the ridge's crest via short technical bits and lots of 3rd class terrain. One on the ridge crest drop down the saddle before starting up more interesting scrambling through black purcell lava to gain Glendowan's summit pyramid and yet more scrambling. Continue west with one short difficulty exposed section. Ascend a couple more unnamed peaks before getting to Newman which is situated at the north end of Goat Lake. Follow the Avion Ridge trail down into Goat Lake and then out the Goat Lake trail back to Red Rock.



Galwey to Cloudy Ridge (Red Rock Rim)
Length:~20km
Distinct summits: 5 to 7
Named peaks: 3 or 4

Technical cruxes: several short 4th class sections
Technical consistency: intermittent
Special considerations: bring lots of water

Best feature: Exposed ridge lines forever
Worst feature: Hot and dry
The phrase that sums it up: Go for the gusto

Overall trip difficulty: Difficult
Route quality: ***

Start at Coppermine creek and head up Galwey. Descend to the shoulder and follow the ridge all the way to Cloudy Ridge. You have the option of avoiding some minor peaks. At the last minor summit before Cloudy Ridge, put in the extra effort to gain this last summit and backtrack back to the descent ridge. See the Red Rock Rim Traverse post for more precise descriptions.

You can beef up this full day by starting up Bellevue Hill. The Full Monty involves heading up the technical route on the East Ridge of Yarrow (aka South East buttress of Spread Eagle aka East ridge of Spionkop) and running this past the crux section north of Cloudy and as far along the ridge as one can go. So far I haven't heard of anyone doing this 40km or so traverse.



Sofa to Vimy

Length:
Distinct summits: 5
Named peaks: 2

Technical cruxes: exposed 4th/5th class traverse
Technical consistency: intermittent
Special considerations: technical crux at halfway point

Best feature: The "Sheep Shearer's Ridge"
Worst feature: Heat exhaustion
The phrase that sums it up: You'll know if your in shape or not

Overall trip difficulty: Difficult
Route quality: ***

Sofa to Vimy Traverse Route: At the first unmarked pullout just past the Chief mountain view point, wander through the grass to find the unmarked Sofa Ridge trail. The trail is in good shape so take some time to find it. At the hanging valley either head directly up the backside of the bowl on cement hard dirt, or do some very fun 3rd to easy 4th class scrambling on the right hand ridge. Follow the rounded summit ridge south east to Sofa's true summit. Head west along an interesting section of ridge. After the next minor summit an exposed 4th/5th class traverse is needed to keep your elevation. After rounding the next minor summit above the old Crypt Lake campground, most of the work is done. The ridge north to Vimy has one more bump to it. From Vimy peak, it is a long walk out to the Marquis Hole where you can wade across the creek to meet your shuttle vehicle.

This is one of my favorite ridge runs. It doesn't have the continual exposure of the Red Rock area, but the test of faith halfway through is fun, and it is just the right length for a full day. Plus, unlike other ridge runs, you can't piece it together in parts.


Carthew to Buchanan Ridge
No route description yet. Most people drop down to Carthew lakes before heading back up to Buchanan Peak. The ridge run sticks to the top of the ridge, busting through one difficult section, avoids the minor subsidiary summit which is the named peak (Buchanan peak) and continues all the way down the ridge to come out at the Crandell Lake pullout.



Avion Ridge

Length:
Distinct summits: 1
Named peaks: 1

Technical cruxes: none
Technical consistency: none
Special considerations: none

Best feature: Tamaracks in the Fall
Worst feature: Thinking of the bike you could have stashed at the Goat Lake fork.
The phrase that sums it up: Many people's milestone

Overall trip difficulty: Moderate
Route quality: ***

Avion Ridge Route: Head up Goat lake. Follow the trail up the end of the valley to the saddle. Cut left and come out via Lost Lake. This is about as well established a ridge run as you can get. See the avion ridge post for more detail.


Others
  • There is lots of great ridge running terrain just north of the Park. Pick a side valley and follow it over to Red Rock or another side canyon.
  • The Tamarack Trail ridge. Lots of people are starting to do this as part of the continental divide fad. Lots of bushiness and not many good views.


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Wednesday, November 04, 2009

Albino Bear in Glacier


Interesting story of an albino black bear in Glacier. If I remember correctly a number of years ago there was an albino ?grizzily? at the foot of Vimy.


Image from Derek Reich of Fish, Wildlife and Parks.

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