Saturday, October 29, 2011

Leader's Pack

I'm just doing some research on good packs for a leader on multi-pitch routes.  When I'm out with Anne, I usually end up leading with a full rack and carrying the gear, so I'm looking for a light pack under 20L.

So far the candidates are

Super Light & Small

Standard Lead Climbing Packs
Arcteryx Cierzo 18
Marmot Kompressor or Kompressor Plus
Camp Phantom


With no close gear shops I obviously can't figure out what fits.  Right now I like the BD Hollowpoint for some occasional hauling (I'm thinking new routes at Expert's Choice).  It should also handle chimney's better that the ultralights.  However, I hate the extra full pound of weight.  I also like how it seems to be a bit longer and narrower than other packs.

The arcteryx seems much too deep and sack-like for me.  That's also why I ruled out the standard BD bullet pack.

The Camp Phantom seems pretty decent.  It doesn't get the press that the BD line does.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Rock & Ice Back Editions

Looks like Rock and Ice has their back editions free online.

Saturday, October 01, 2011

New Route - Expert's Choice

A couple of years ago a new route went in between Local Decision and Long Decision.  It has solid placements, but is definitely not a "sew" up.  There is a fixed pin down low, and a bolt at mid height.  Bring some micro-nuts for the terrain before the bolt.  At the upper roof, the route cuts right to join up with Local Decision.  Unfortunately there is a bit of loose rock here.  Luckily the hard climbing is done.

I would guess the route is another 5.9.  It has one hard pull by the bolt.  Blair repeated it a few weeks ago and tested out the micro nuts below the bolt.  I got even with him and put in 2 bolts into Long Decision.  The rock was horrid.


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