Montana Guide Books

There are a couple of newer books out for climbing just south of the border.

Central Montana Rock - including Blackleaf & Canyon Ferry (outside Helena)

Big Sky Ice

Updates on Blackleaf

More info on Montana rock climbing here

Smears

I just drove up Cameron today. It looks like the alpine smears are coming in. The climbs opposite oil city are verglassed. There looks to be an intersted vertical smear developing behind Buchannon Garden's rock climbs.

I would hazard a guess that Midnight Madness is in, but thin. I haven't had a good look at Sullivan's but nothing there has jumped out. There still has been little snow in the very front range mountains. The mountains up beyond Custer look quite snowy though. It should be a very good weekend for some alpine adventures.

Info Bureau

There are two new anchors on the far right side of the cliff. The chains are just below the lip of the climbs. Both climbs are short and quite easy. Nonetheless, they have a few good moves up top. If leading, bring some tri cams.

Left route (~5.7 a direct start to the roof is 5.8 or 5.9)
-Start at the far right of the roof. This is the crux. Head up the easy crack to where things steepen up at the top. There are good holds through the slighlty overhanging crack/bulge (~5.7). The top and bottom are good. The middle is lame.

Right route (~5.5)
-Start in a triangle shaped cave. The ground above is low angle. The horizontal breaks at the top are very nice. They are the main reason to do the route.

This now means you can now comfortably fit 3 parties on the info bureau. It also provides some easier ground for new climbers to practice on.

Tick Ridge

The other week, Anne and I wandered part way up tick ridge. The scrambling on the ridge proper is excellent. The trailhead starts at the old road leading north from the Waste transfer station (behind the warden compound). A really good game trail heads up past the tick ridge climbs. A number of paths are possible, but sticking as close to the edge as you can provides the best scrambling and views.




Anne on a slabby step around




On the ridge proper, a little higher up



We stopped just before we got level with the prominent dark band that runs across the mountain at about 1/3 height. Like most climbers, this band has always looked intriguing. Having been up to it twice, the rock is nice, but not nice enough for the tremendous approach required. It is similar to the upper band of expert's choice, but without the interesting features and large relief.






All in all, this is a great little outing. It makes a good scramble for those looking for a short, easy outing.