Leader's Pack

I'm just doing some research on good packs for a leader on multi-pitch routes.  When I'm out with Anne, I usually end up leading with a full rack and carrying the gear, so I'm looking for a light pack under 20L.

So far the candidates are

Super Light & Small

BD Flash Pack

BD Bbee

Standard Lead Climbing Packs

Cilo Worksack 20

Arcteryx Cierzo 18

Marmot Kompressor or Kompressor Plus
Camp Phantom

Beefy

BD Hollowpoint

With no close gear shops I obviously can't figure out what fits.  Right now I like the BD Hollowpoint for some occasional hauling (I'm thinking new routes at Expert's Choice).  It should also handle chimney's better that the ultralights.  However, I hate the extra full pound of weight.  I also like how it seems to be a bit longer and narrower than other packs.

The arcteryx seems much too deep and sack-like for me.  That's also why I ruled out the standard BD bullet pack.

The Camp Phantom seems pretty decent.  It doesn't get the press that the BD line does.

Rock & Ice Back Editions

Looks like Rock and Ice has their back editions free online.

http://rockandice.com/rock-and-ice-digital-editions

New Route - Expert's Choice

A couple of years ago a new route went in between Local Decision and Long Decision.  It has solid placements, but is definitely not a "sew" up.  There is a fixed pin down low, and a bolt at mid height.  Bring some micro-nuts for the terrain before the bolt.  At the upper roof, the route cuts right to join up with Local Decision.  Unfortunately there is a bit of loose rock here.  Luckily the hard climbing is done.

I would guess the route is another 5.9.  It has one hard pull by the bolt.  Blair repeated it a few weeks ago and tested out the micro nuts below the bolt.  I got even with him and put in 2 bolts into Long Decision.  The rock was horrid.