Gear found in Waterton

Found a little, rusty nut tool at the bottom of Cusaks start yesterday, it has blue tape on it. Let me know if it is yours and I'll mail it to you. Climbed Cusaks crack yesterday, what an aewsome pitch. There is a hanger missing at the top of the crack and we couldn't find the two pin station on the slanting ledge at the start of Cusaks finish. Was the original route straight up the nasty last section or the easier terrain to the left? Thyere is alot of broken glass on the easier top pitches I wonder if their are signs near the top telling tourist and punks that there are climbers below?
Chris M

Even Warmer Rock in Waterton

Another great Friday of Climbing in Waterton. Aaron and I climbed Beeline to Lichen Line Right and the up some 5.3ish terrain to the top. At the start of the top easy stuff there is some awesome stratifacation in the rock, a tight curl and wave forming a neat cave and chimneys.
We dropped a cam at the start of the last pitch of lichen line and due to the wind we couldn't communicate to get it back. If anyone finds my yellow Metolious cam I will trade it for a case of beer, it should be sitting on the edge of the belay ledge.
We would like to try Cusaks in the near future and we were looking for a little more info than whats in the guide. Such as, is Cusacks start included in the four pitch description for Cusaks crack. how long is the 5.8 pitch, the crack looks big from the road, how big of gear do we need and stuff like that.
Again the ticks were horrible but you get used to them after a couple of dozen try to sneek home for a party, Aaron put bug dope around his ankles and that kept them out of his pants. I would suggest bringing an tick isolation bag to Waterton with you, I use a dry bag to stuff my ticky clothing and ropes into, so they don't sneek around your car on the drive home.
Chris M

Prescribed Fire April 5th or so

P1010005
Originally uploaded by cgoble72.

Last week the park did another prescribed burn. One of the purposes was to try and push back the creep of the aspen trees. Old images my grandfather has seem to show few aspen's on Knights hill. Also there seemed to have been a lot less of them down by Kootenai's old house.

While it is doubtful the rather week fire did too much damage to the trees, new grass is already coming up. An older fire they burned on the east side of Knights lake by the river showed quite a lot of new growth in the spring and the following years.

Of course one also has to worry about the effect on wildlife. For instance my Grandmother reminded me how one of the burns over by the turnoff to chief displaced or killed the burrowing owl there. Also the elusive black footed ferrets might also be affected. Of course, it is doubtful these things would have too signifacnt of an effect with the localized, low intensity flames one is able to risk with prescribed burns.

Warm Rock in Waterton

Jumping right into summer this weekend, I had the chance to finally climb a route on the Bears Hump. On Friday Aaron and I climbed Leaning column and a little 5.3 (named has slipped my mind, but its on the right of the middle ledge). What great rock and interesting pro during the lower rock band. The rock was warm and dry and fairly clean except for a few spots were the winter loosened up the yellow limestone. What would be a recomended route for next week end? I have been studying the guide book and I would like to try the lichen lines, any advice?
Chris M
P.S. we got coated in ticks
P.P.S. the hangers were missing off of a station at the top of Leaning Column, I can replace them if need be, or this could be part of the bolting debate?

Easter Trips 2 - nearby

For those who want to get slightly warmer weather without the big commute down to Utah, my suggestion is to hit the mountains West of Augusta Montana(montana map - montana topo maps. While climbing at Blackleaf will likely be a bit frigid, the untapped bouldering at the base should be good. Landing are usually grassy.


boulders at the base of blackleaf

The hiking in the nearby canyons is also pretty good. The ridge to the north of Blackleaf makes a nice easy scramble. The views to the west are fabulous, and the south facing ridges should be somewhat snow free.


west of Blackleaf April 12th 2005

However my pick would be to drive down toward the ski hill off the Teton river. On the south fork of the Teton river you can head over by Lonesome Ridge (north side visible). A road leads to the south side and an easy scramble up to the summit pyramid. Some route finding may be needed to stick to 3rd class terrain near the top. The north side looks like it could have an interesting scramble or two though.

Last April when I was down there, we went for an easy kayak run below Gibson dam. The canyon is pretty, and lots and lots of rock climbing is available. Some routes have even been put up. There are some private hotsprings at the dude ranch at the head of Gibson resevoir. The hike in is about 7km. The valleys up there are large, open and picturesque. However I would guess they will be snowed in for some time.

One more possibility is an easy canoe trip down the Missouri river from Wolf Creek Pass to Cascade. This is just north of Helena. The river is quite windy, but is very beautiful, even if the interstate does wind nearby. some images My personal choice would be to try and make it down the Dearborn. While April still means low water, the scenery is beautiful. The upper sections seem to have some good intermediate to advanced canoeing, and the lower some good begginer / intermediate kayaking.


One of the last option is some back country skiing at top of the world provincial park over by Lussier Hot Springs. You could get some kayaking on the Lower White (II+) or Bull Rivers (II to III+) as well as some turns.

Of coures one could always hit StoneHill, camp out at the campgroung north of the place and west along the dirtroad for about 8km. There is a class IV creek west of Whitefish that offers some moderate kayaking. The Yaak river also has some excellent advanced kayaking